【Japan】I visited Mitsumine Shrine, a power spot in Chichibu guarded by a white wolf.

I visited the powerful spiritual site “Mitake Shrine” in Chichibu.

One day, I felt the urge to visit somewhere surrounded by nature and began searching for a destination. That led me to discover a shrine atop a mountain. It was the famous Mitsumine Shrine, where I could stay at the accommodation facility, Kōungaku. The chance to stay at a shrine lodging was also appealing. So, off I went.

What sort of shrine is Mitsumine Shrine?

Mitake Shrine is apparently a very popular power spot. It is located on Mount Mitake at an elevation of 1,101 metres.
Since ancient times, Shugendō has flourished here, and legend has it that Miyamoto Musashi, whilst training, attained enlightenment in the art of dual-wielding swords.
Moreover, the guardian deity of this shrine is a white wolf, and instead of guardian lion-dogs, statues of wolves stand guard. Shrines with wolves as guardian deities are extremely rare.

White amulets are popular

Moreover, the “white amulets” sold here are apparently quite popular.
It is said that figure skater Mao Asada was presented with a “white amulet” and subsequently achieved great success on the ice. There are also tales of various positive influences, such as comedian Biking winning the King of Conte competition after paying their respects at the shrine.

This “white amulet” proved so popular that it caused major congestion. Consequently, distribution was suspended as of May 2018.

Travel Report to Mitsumine Shrine

So, I decided to stay at Kōunkaku, the shrine's own temple lodging, and set off on my journey. The route was something like this: a mix of limited express train and bus. First, I headed from Ikebukuro to Seibu-Chichibu Station.

Ikebukuro → (Seibu Railway, Limited Express Red Arrow) → Seibu-Chichibu Station → (on foot) → Seibu-Chichibu Station/Seibu Bus → (Seibu Route Bus (Seibu-Chichibu Station–Mitake Shrine), bound for Mitake Shrine) → Mitake Shrine/Seibu Bus Stop Arrival

Limited Express Red Arrow → Seibu-Chichibu Station

I made it to the station just in the nick of time and boarded the train. I'd bought a beer and was relaxing when suddenly an announcement came over the PA: ‘This train will reverse direction partway through its journey.’ Reverse direction? What on earth? I was wondering when suddenly it began moving in the opposite direction to how it had been travelling.

The train began moving backwards, as if reversing a car. Did you know? The Red Arrow bound for Chichibu starts travelling in the opposite direction partway through the journey. It was just a change of direction, but I felt terribly car sick... As the return journey does the same, those prone to motion sickness should be prepared.

And so, enduring the motion sickness, our journey to Chichibu began.

Ikebukuro → Arrival at Seibu-Chichibu Station

After all that, I arrived at Chichibu Station. It took about an hour and twenty minutes to reach Seibu-Chichibu Station. I'm feeling a bit travel sick, but otherwise I'm feeling refreshed. Next to the ticket gates was a facility combining a souvenir shop and a super sentō bathhouse. It looks like there'll be no trouble passing the time. I'll stop by on the way back if I have time. I wait at the station front for the bus to Mitsumine Shrine.

Arrival at Mitsumine Shrine

After all that, we've arrived at Mitsumine Shrine! What a lovely view. The air is so clear. We came in winter, so it was mostly bare trees. It's also famous for its rhododendrons, so visiting in season might have been enjoyable too.

Three torii gates

Mitake Shrine features a rare torii gate design found in only seven locations across Japan. The photograph below shows this “Triple Torii”. It possesses a peculiar shape formed by combining three torii gates. Furthermore, the guardian dogs are wolves, not dogs. As mentioned earlier, the object of worship at Mitake Shrine is the wolf; consequently, all guardian statues are wolves.

The wolf is also written as “Ōkami”, and is known in the animal kingdom as the most virtuous messenger. Since ancient times, people possessed by spirits have been called “fox-possessed”, and it is said that it was the wolf that would drive away that spirit (the fox).

Walking up the slope. The air is wonderfully refreshing up here on the mountain! This is exactly what I came for!

On the way here, there were several places to eat. Remarkable, really, for being up in the mountains.
Waraji miso katsu and karintō, along with miso dumplings and amazake, are sold here, filling the air with a delicious aroma. Some guests may be staying without meals, but finding somewhere to eat at lunchtime won't be a problem. Make sure you've sorted out dinner before evening. The temple lodgings also have a restaurant.

Mitake Shrine Main Gate

The mountain gate came into view. Here too, the guardian dogs are wolves.
Passing through this mountain gate and climbing the steps, you will find Mitsumine Shrine. Given its high altitude, the air was wonderfully refreshing. There were quite a few tourists, and we had to queue to pay our respects. A short walk from this shrine lies our lodgings, the Kōungaku.

So then! Since my main purpose was mountain climbing, I promptly set off along the mountain path from the side road.

A stroll around Mount Mitsumine

So, this is the map we found at the visitor centre. As you can see, you can walk around around Mitsumine Shrine like this.

Right then. Do take a look at this. It's a pamphlet from Mitsumine Shrine. It says: ‘From the shrine, it's about an hour and a half's leisurely climb to the inner shrine. The views here are absolutely superb!’

However, to cut to the chase, it was not a place one could approach with such a light-hearted attitude. Fatal accidents have occurred on the hiking trails along the way. Having seen this brochure, I wanted to visit the inner shrine and asked the shrine maiden, ‘Where can I go to reach the inner shrine?’

Then the shrine maiden, looking troubled, called to the priest behind her. The priest said, ‘You cannot enter the inner sanctuary without proper mountaineering gear. Especially in winter, it becomes snowbound and dangerous.’ The priest added, ‘There is a path behind the car park, but it involves a steep climb and is hazardous.’

Though I felt a bit disappointed, I thought, “Well, I might as well take a look...” and went to see it. The path from the car park was through such a lovely, peaceful woodland that I was glad I'd come. For some reason, I didn't take a single photograph though...

Up to a certain point, it was a hiking trail perfectly suited for a stroll. Partway along, there was a hut-like structure where a notice stated, “To proceed with the climb, please sign your name and submit it.” It also instructed visitors to sign a paper stating, “Should an accident occur beyond this point, it is your own responsibility.” Apparently, fatal accidents have occurred on this trail, and these seem to have happened last year and the year before. Most were falls.

Indeed, the path grows steeper the further one proceeds. With one side plunging into a cliff, this is certainly quite dangerous even in the snow-free summer months. Passing through here to reach the inner shrine would be a perilous spot even for experienced mountaineers.

So, visiting the inner shrine is quite a challenge. I thought the brochure should at least mention something like, 'There have been fatal falls due to slipping.'

Lunch at Mount Mitsumine

So I turned back. At the main approach to Mitsumine Shrine, I had the famous “straw-sandal pork cutlet rice bowl”. It was delicious. They also sell things like miso dumplings.

The view from the summit. It's a splendid view.

Accommodation: Kōungaku

Before we knew it, night had fallen. Kōungaku is a place like this.

It's very spacious. As I was staying without meals, the price was quite reasonable. I believe it was under 6,000 yen. Adding meals would cost a little more. There was also a large communal bath, albeit a small one.

Mitake Shrine, Day Two

Well, day two. I slipped out of the inn before dawn and watched the sunrise from the summit. It was beautiful. As I stood watching, someone walking a dog approached and likely mistook me for a suspicious character.

It was winter, yet there was a tree green with mistletoe-like growths. So, after a leisurely stroll, I returned to Tokyo from Chichibu.

Conclusion

How did you find it? Personally, I was more keen on exploring the mountains than amulets or purification rituals, so I feel the report on those aspects is a bit lacking. Mitsumine Shrine does perform misfortune-warding ceremonies and sells amulets and talismans, so I'd recommend it. Also, a point to note: the Chichibu Railway starts running in the opposite direction partway through, so do take care (laughs).

The air at the summit was wonderfully refreshing. Do give it a try yourselves.